Are you worried about your window and door project turning into a long, drawn-out, costly mess? Today we're talking about the five most common problems you may be facing and the fixes you can do. Replacement is not always the answer — but it may be easier than you think.
Welcome to Stay Glassy, Episode 13. I'm Maria and I'm Duncan. We're your go-to pros from Newman Windows and Doors and Newman Garage Doors, helping you make smart, stylish, and safe choices for your home.
Glazed and Confused: Homeowner Q&A
Q: Why is there condensation in my window?
The answer depends on whether you have single-pane or dual-pane windows. With single-pane windows, condensation on the inside of the glass means the aluminum frame and single pane are providing almost no thermal barrier — warm, moist interior air meets the cold glass surface and condenses. The fix is new energy-efficient dual-pane windows. With older dual-pane windows, condensation between the two panes means the hermetic seal has failed. In windows 20–30 years old with aluminum frames and rubber Christmas-tree gaskets, the glass corners have likely cut through the gasket over time, breaking the seal. These should be fully replaced — repairing them is not cost-effective. In newer dual-pane vinyl windows, the glass unit (IG unit) can often be replaced without replacing the full window, at lower cost and with a warranty.
Q: Why do my new windows leak when it rains?
The most common cause is incorrect original installation flashing — not the window itself. Stucco is porous. When rain penetrates it, it needs to run down behind the stucco, over the tar paper, and out at the bottom of the wall. If the flashing wasn't layered correctly during original construction, water runs behind the paper and into the wall framing instead. A retrofit replacement window will not fix a flashing problem — the underlying installation issue must be corrected. Other causes include caulking that has separated from a replacement window frame to the surrounding wall surface, which is a more straightforward fix.
Q: Are sliding glass doors easy to break into?
Old ones can be dangerously easy. Many sliding glass doors installed in the 1960s and 70s were built with the sliding panel on the outside track — meaning the sliding panel sits on the exterior side of the fixed panel. Anyone with a crowbar or screwdriver can insert it underneath the sliding panel, lift it up, and remove it from the track entirely — bypassing the lock completely. Tens of thousands of these doors are still in Southern California homes. Older locking mechanisms were also minimal — a small metal catch that could be pried off easily. Modern sliding glass doors have multi-directional locking systems, thicker glass, robust strike plates, and 3-inch screws anchored into the wall studs. If you have old sliding glass doors, check which track your sliding panel sits in.
Problem 1: My Window Won't Open
Common causes include: paint buildup that has sealed the window shut over multiple paint cycles; nails driven through the frame as a makeshift fix for a broken sash; failed balancers in single or double-hung windows that cause the sash to fall back down immediately after being raised; and worn, broken, or missing wheels or damaged tracks in sliding windows. All of these have repairs available. For older single-pane or aluminum windows, the repair cost often approaches the cost of new vinyl or fiberglass windows — making replacement the smarter long-term investment, with the added benefits of lifetime warranty coverage and energy efficiency.
Problem 2: Drafty Windows and Faded Furniture
Single-pane aluminum windows conduct both heat and cold efficiently — and as they age, they loosen in their frames and allow air to pass around the edges. The UV transmission through uncoated single-pane glass is essentially unfiltered, causing flooring, carpet, upholstery, curtains, and artwork to fade unevenly over time. Replacing with dual-pane vinyl or fiberglass windows with low-E coating blocks up to 86% of UV, eliminates drafts, and delivers immediate noise reduction. Homeowners consistently report that the improvement in comfort is noticeable from the first day.
Problem 3: Fogged Windows
Condensation between the panes of a dual-pane window means the hermetic seal has failed. For windows 20–40 years old with aluminum frames, full replacement is recommended — the cost to re-glass old aluminum windows is rarely justified by the result. For windows from approximately 2000 onward with frames still in good condition, the IG unit (insulated glass unit) can be replaced independently, without disturbing the frame. This is less expensive than full replacement. If replacing the IG unit, it's also an opportunity to upgrade to low-E or low-E Max glass for UV protection and energy efficiency at the same time.
Problem 4: Sliding Glass Door Is Difficult to Open
Aluminum thresholds on old sliding doors corrode chemically when in contact with concrete, eventually developing holes that are visible from above. Wheels wear down over decades of use. Tracks accumulate damage. The result is a door that requires significant physical force to operate — a real challenge for anyone with limited mobility or strength. Modern sliding glass doors glide effortlessly, lock securely in multiple directions with screws anchored into studs, and are more affordably priced than most homeowners expect. For any household where door operation has become a daily struggle, this is one of the most impactful upgrades available.
Problem 5: Ugly or Outdated Entry Door
The front door is the entrance to your home and the first impression for every visitor, buyer, and appraiser. Modern fiberglass and steel entry doors offer strong ROI, superior security through multi-point locking systems, and a wide range of design options. Wood doors require a minimum 6-foot overhang to protect against sun damage — without adequate protection, deterioration is inevitable. Design options including decorative glass, speakeasy panels, custom caming, and hundreds of finish choices mean a replacement door can be both secure and genuinely distinctive.
Safety with Savvy
This episode's safety segment featured a window nailed shut — a common DIY “fix” when a window stops operating correctly. The problem: a nailed window is a sealed egress point. In a fire where a door is blocked, a window may be the only escape route available — or the only way for a first responder to reach you. Nailing a window shut is a safety hazard regardless of intent. If a window doesn't function correctly, the right answer is repair or replacement — never permanent closure.
Key Takeaway
Full replacement is not always the answer to window and door problems — but knowing which problems need full replacement and which can be fixed more cost-effectively requires talking to someone who knows the difference. Work with a window and door specialist who can assess your specific situation and recommend the right solution, not just the most expensive one.
Next episode (Episode 14): Is triple-pane glass worth it — or is it overkill? Visit newmanwindows.com/stay-glassy to submit your questions.